How To Install A Shower Door Frame

"Done right, goose egg beats a shower enclosed in glass," says Rich Rosenfield with pride, every bit he wipes the glass-and-metal door to a spotless shine. Rosenfield has just spent an hour and a half installing this enclosure, one of about 40 he puts in every calendar week for Banner Drinking glass Shelmar of Waltham, Massachusetts.

Tempered-glass shower enclosures are permanent and easy to clean, and have a sleek transparency that makes a bathroom appear bigger. And when properly installed, they go on water where it belongs.

These enclosures come in two types: framed and frameless. The frameless systems, while elegant, crave thicker glass, expensive hardware, and flawless fabrication. Framed units weigh and cost less, and can take more corruption.

He too says that frameless enclosures are much more challenging to install, whereas hanging a framed door and side panel is a project almost homeowners can complete in an afternoon.

Step ane

Shower Door Overview

Planning Alee

•Measure out the width of the shower opening in at to the lowest degree three places: threshold, up to 5 feet, and halfway in betwixt.

•Whatsoever wall that's more than than ½ inch out of vertical over 5 feet volition need a matching filler strip and so that the door can be made plumb.

•From the bespeak on the threshold where the door volition pivot, measure out the distance to bath fixtures or any other potential obstacles that an outswing door might hit.

•Draw a sketch of the shower in manifestly view (looking downward from above) and in elevation (side view). Fill up in all the measurements and take it with you lot to the showroom.

Click ''enlarge this image'' to view analogy labels.

Step ii

Cut the Base Rail to Length

Measure out the length of the shower threshold, so use a hacksaw to cutting the aluminum base track to fit tightly betwixt the stall walls.

Smooth the cut end with a file. Vacuum up the metal filings immediately so they don't scratch the bathroom flooring or shower base.

Step iii

Prepare the Base Rail

Identify the rails on the threshold and use a tape measure to brand certain that it's centered from front to back.

With a pencil, mark the threshold along the edge of the track near each cease. This allows like shooting fish in a barrel repositioning if it slides around during installation of the jambs.

Step four

Marking Position of the Swivel-Side Jamb

On the side of the shower opening that volition support the door, hold a jamb piece against the wall and then that its lower end fits into the base track. Without moving the track, apply a iv-foot level to suit the jamb until it'due south plumb.

Stick a pencil through the jamb's screw holes to marker the wall.

Remove the jamb, and at each pencil marker make a minor divot using an automatic punch or hammer and nail set. (These tools bit the tile'south coat enough to prevent the drill bit from wandering.)

Step 5

Drill Holes for Wall Anchors

Drill holes at each mark using a iii/16-inch-diameter masonry drill bit.

Tap a plastic wall ballast into each screw pigsty. Utilise a plastic mallet to avoid marring the walls.

Hold the jamb confronting the wall so its screw holes align with the plastic anchors. Bulldoze a ane½-inch stainless steel pan-caput screw into each hole.

Stride 6

Hang the Door

Lift the door with its attached hinge rail positioned to swing out, and slip the hinge track into the jamb.

Concord the door in place and bank check its strike-side edge with a level to make certain it'southward plumb. If it's not, pull the hinge track out of the jamb slightly at the top or lesser.

Once the door is plumb, the hinge track should yet be engaged in the jamb—there's a full ½ inch of adjustment for plumb between these two pieces.

While a helper holds the door in identify, drill four seven/32-inch pilot holes through the holes in the hinge runway and into the mounted jamb. Fasten the hinge track to the jamb with the ½-inch stainless steel pan-head screws provided.

Step 7

Install the Remaining Side Jamb

If in that location is no glass side panel, sideslip the magnetic strike runway onto the remaining side jamb. Property the rail and jamb, close the door until information technology lines up with the base of operations rails.

Adjust the jamb until it'south flush against the wall. Mark the wall aslope the jamb. Remove the jamb from the track.

Align the jamb with the pencil line and marker spiral hole locations.

Drill the holes for the plastic anchors. Screw the jamb to the wall.

To install a drinking glass side panel, slip the remaining jamb onto one of the panel's edges and the magnetic strike rail onto the other. Fit the panel into the base rail. Butt the jamb against the wall.

Close the door and mark the wall forth the jamb.

Remove the jamb and the magnetic rails from the panel and adhere the jamb.

Slide the panel back into its jamb and base track.

Step 8

Set the Header

If a header is being used, mensurate and cutting to length as in Footstep 2. Slip it over the top of the hinge jamb and side panel.

Drill a seven/32-inch pilot hole through the inside face of the header at each stop and into the respective jamb. Bulldoze a ½-inch screw into each hole.

Replace the magnetic strike track on the strike jamb or, if used, on the edge of the stationary panel. Conform it and so that the magnetic strips on the door and runway produce a watertight seal along their entire length when the door is closed.

Screw the strike rail into the holes of the strike jamb or stationary console with the ½-inch screws.

Step 9

Screw Together the Frame

Install the door handles that come with the kit. Align the outside door handle with the holes in the doorframe. Attach the interior handle and tighten the setscrews.

Stabilize the assembly by drilling a airplane pilot hole and driving a ½-inch screw through the outside confront of the base runway wherever it meets a vertical frame member.

Echo the process on the inside face of the header.

Eye the screws on the aluminum extrusions to avert hitting the glass.

Step ten

Attach Drip Track

Pull the thin vinyl sweep out of the drip rail and fix it aside.

Cut the drip track with a hacksaw to match the width of the door. Round off the ends of the cutting with a file.

Slide the vinyl sweep back into the groove in the rail. Crimp the ends of the groove closed with pliers to hold the sweep permanently in place.

Trim off its overhanging cease with a utility knife.

With the vinyl sweep pointing down, hold the baste track against the inside bottom edge of the door. Drill 7/32-inch pilot holes into the doorframe through the elongated mounting holes and depression enough to avoid hitting the drinking glass, which sits ¼ inch into the trim.

Adhere it with the ½-inch screws. Before tightening the screws, tilt the track down slightly toward the hinge side so that h2o will drain away from the strike.

Pace 11

Utilize Silicone Caulk

To make the new shower enclosure totally waterproof, employ a bead of clear, mildew-resistant silicone forth both the inside and outside edges of the base track.

Besides, utilise silicone along the inside edges of both the correct- and left-side jambs.

Shine out the silicone immediately later on applying information technology to create a cracking, even joint.

Tools:

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/bathrooms/21016664/how-to-install-a-shower-door

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